This year Veda and I decided to crank up the hiking expedition and backpack to a more isolated challenging destination than Half Dome, the Kalalau Trail. Our plan was to set up a tent and spend the night under the stars on the breathtaking Na Pali coastline of Kauai.
A daunting test of our mettle The Kalalau is 11 mile endurance, beginning at literally the end of the road where the pavement ends on the Kuhio Highway at Ke’e Beach. The Na Pali is a rugged coastline of soaring cliffs and hanging valleys carved by rain, surf and exposure to the elements where the landscape morphs from rainforest like jungles to arid desert terrain. Kauai is the oldest of the Hawaiian Islands born from volcanic eruptions and in a perfect circle of life, birth and death; it is slowly eroding and returning to the sea from whence it was born.
Veda and I planned our trip for the middle of August booked our airfare and rented a condo. Our only error was not purchasing our hiking permit (best if done one year in advance). They only issue a small number of permits and they run out quickly. Permits are not required for the first two miles of the hike to Hanakapi’ai Beach which is an easy trek. We were not able to obtain permits (we tried) and decided to chance it without them. What could they possibly do to us, arrest us, fine us, helicopter us out handcuffed? We couldn’t and wouldn’t cancel so….. onward and upward we decided to take our chances.
Naturally, in anticipation, we tossed and turned most of the night leading up to our 4 am wakeup call. The good news is that Starbucks opens at 4 am in Kapa’a which is about one hour from the trailhead. We arrived at 6 am nervous, excited and raring to go. The last bathroom pit-stop is here and we took advantage, we also took our first photo-op at the “Welcome to the Kalalau Trail” sign and we began the climb up the trail. The first two miles are through jungle growth with a well defined trail and no problem for any moderately fit person. We decided to hike down to Hanakapi’ai Beach eat a little breakfast and take some pictures. For our efforts we were rewarded with an awesome rainbow and a deserted pristine beach. The sun was shrouded in heavy clouds that emptied into the Pacific along the horizon. We could see that rain was eminent.
One expects to encounter some rain during the trek and sure enough as we began one of the most strenuous parts of the hike the rain came. Now our resilience would be tested as immediately, after Hanakapi’ai Valley the trail rapidly gains 800 feet climbing into the clouds through treacherously overgrown narrow paths with steep switchbacks that are heavily encumbered with tree roots and rock outcroppings, a machete would have been helpful. The rain provided cooler temperatures which we welcomed, however we soon found as we forged forward up and down the next 4 miles that the trail had turned to mud beneath our feet. We slipped and struggled, thank goodness for our hiking poles which provided a modicum of stability. This grueling part of the hike navigates Hono o Na Pali Natural Area Reserve through two valleys that are suspended high above the sea, Ho’olulu and Waiahuakua where at one time Hawaiian’s grew coffee which fragrantly still perfumes the air. There is a magnificent waterfall and campsite at Hanakoa for those that wish to break up the journey and camp overnight. However, our goal was to make the challenging trek in one day, but we did allow ourselves a half hour sojourn after crossing the Hanakoa Stream to eat our lunch, rest our weary feet and admire the beautiful greenery while listening to the gurgling stream as it rushes to its final destination a precipice before pouring into the sea.
The canopy of trees provided enough cover to shelter us from the rain that reached us only as a drizzle as we proceeded on the next leg of our journey the remaining 5 miles from Hanakoa to Kalalau Beach. Unfortunately, we became disoriented after lunch taking a wrong fork in the trail which is poorly defined in places suddenly disappearing into the jungle. We trudged through thick growth and got lost which cost us about a half hour in time but far more in energy as we had to climb back up over slippery obstacles of trees their roots, mud and wet leaves before finally returning to the stream and returning to the trail. Once assured that we were back on the trail we traversed below the Na Pali. “Pali” means “cliffs” and the trail from here winds out of tropical forest into drier terrain offering stunning glimpses of the Pacific below. As we traversed the twisting trail that snaked its way high above the sea we espied a herd of wild goats that in perfect balance and defying gravity danced across the sheer bluffs. Their dainty hooves were certainly better intended for this terrain than the two footed women who now must attempt to cross the same expanse. This is where the Kalalau Trail tests your psychological fortitude as the trail narrows to a width of mere inches with heart palpitating drop offs into the ocean. Veda and I had read about one particular section graphically christened “crawler’s ledge” and we were on the lookout for it. Bizarrely, from a distance you can’t really ascertain where it begins until suddenly you realize you are on it. Your first thought is “I can’t do this!” Second thought, “No way, I can’t go back!” You prod one step at a time your eyes glued to each step you take, your poles firmly planted in the shifting decomposing ground beneath you. Most importantly, you try not to look down as your body in self-preservation leans in towards the slope and away from the sheer drop. According to what we had read, the worst of this ledge is perhaps twenty feet. Not so, it seemed more like a half mile. By this time we were nine or ten miles into the hike and testing our ability to endure. We had no choice but to continue.
Finally, we reached the welcome sign designating that we had arrived at Kalalau. Below in the distance we could see the sliver of white sand caressed by rolling surf. With a sigh of relief we knew we were in sight of our destination, however, that last half mile felt like ten miles to our weary bodies. We reached the rushing Kalalau Stream where we met a group of young teens hopping barefoot across the rocks and swimming nude in the natural swimming holes. Like gay sprites frolicking they appeared to us. We were in no condition to hop anywhere; in fact, fording that stream was particularly difficult, I felt like an old lady. My equilibrium was encumbered, my feet wouldn’t mind my brain and I slipped twice on rocks scraping my shins and soaking my boots. I was not a happy camper! I kept walking forward towards what I hoped would soon appear, the beach. There were several campsites along the trail with small groups of people relaxing. I couldn’t wait to remove my shoes and sit staring at the blue ocean. The hike had taken us nine hours, including lunch and losing our way. The only thing I wanted was to rest.
Oddly, we had heard about a permanent camp, illegal but existing, called “Base Camp” where a group of free souls (often referred to as hippies) basically live. A friend said to check in and introduce ourselves to the friendly natives and they would be helpful if we needed anything. It was quite amazing they had hanging pots, fires cooking, air mattresses, and awnings and tarps hanging to protect from the rain, hammocks strung, you name it nearly all the comforts of home, even pet dogs. They invited us to partake in a steak and rice dinner (can you imagine), but we gracefully declined. After a short visit in which we delivered to them some gifts of chocolate candy bars and cigarettes (we had heard this was a much appreciated offering and we had stocked up). The gifts were received with great fanfare. Waving goodbye we headed for the sand promising to return later.
Camping on the beach is illegal but we decided the sand would offer a softer base for our tent and our weary bodies. What the heck we were outlaws anyway (no permits), we pitched our tent, or we tried, right smack on the sand. Having only put our tent together once before (big mistake), we found ourselves struggling and our tent looked pretty lopsided when we finished. Fortunately, a nice couple pitched nearby and they had the same tent! Hallelujah, we pleaded for intervention and they kindly helped us re-pitch our tent. We were set! We changed into our bathing suits and headed to the waterfall.
Up against the cliffs flowing into a stream that flows into the Pacific is a cascading waterfall where everyone that makes it to Kalalau Beach bathes. With ingenuity someone has created the use of a PVC pipe to funnel the water into a single stream for a portable shower. You wait your turn, bring your shampoo and voila a delightful refreshing bathing experience is yours free from Mother Nature. The cold water is pure rejuvenation.
Returning to our tent we changed into our “jammies” and opened our cans of turkey chili, what can I say “heaven on earth”! We watched the sun set in a moment of dramatic glory, a fiery ball sinking into the shimmering blue horizon of the Pacific. Life was good!
Since our arrival at Kalalau I had been planting seeds of rebellion in Veda’s ears, complaining that I did not want to hike back out of the Kalalau at dawn which was our initial plan. I was exhausted and it seemed crazy to make this trek with barely a twelve hour turn around. Many, if not most hikers we had learned spend a couple of nights camping before attempting the grueling return hike. I was determined not to hike out at all if I could help it. We had heard that for a small compensation a boat ride out could be secured. That sounded perfect to me, I convinced Veda (which actually wasn’t that hard to do) that we were taking the boat home.
I have never seen more stars in the heavens than can be viewed from the beach at Kalalau. It is beyond spectacular, galaxy upon galaxy, lighting up the sky. We spent the night “Sleepless in Seattle” I mean Kalalau and at dawn we packed up and waited on the beach with a few other fellow travelers who had also determined the wisdom of securing passage on a boat out of Kalalau. We wrapped our belongings in garbage bags and with the help of our hippy friends we swam to the boat. It was breathtaking to view the cliffs of Na Pali from the opposite vantage point where we could see the many sea caves, grottos, remote slivers of beaches and cascading waterfalls that decorate the shoreline. It was perfect and our Captain was so accommodating that he even gave us a tour and took us inside the second largest sea cave in the world. A perfect end to a perfect hike, “bucket list” entry accomplished, check!
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